AZORES express

What to Do

The Nature of the Azores
One of the wonders of this archipelago is the bio-diversity of its trees and plants, brought from locations around the world. The Azores began, for the most part, as lava. Then the winds brought grasses and bit of organic debris. By the time humans arrived, there were plants and evergreen forests throughout the islands. Humans brought new plantings, such as the cryptomeria conifer (Japanese cedar) from Japan. All tolled, there are some 800-plus species of plants - only 300 of them are native. Cedar trees, heather, ling, mountain grapes, white wood, ginger, dogwood and the tamujo bush are a few of the local species. The newcomers include the acacia tree, flowering hydrangea and azaleas, camellia, incense and other ornamental plants. Despite their proximity, each island has its own look, feel, and climate. And, thus the fauna can vary dramatically from island to island.

The Azores' commitment to the environment led the European Union to recognize the islands in 1995 in the European Awards for Tourism and the Environment. The Azores offer numerous natural reserves, protected landscape, parks and forests.

The Azores takes it name from the sea hawk, and birds can be seen and heard everywhere on the islands, from the night calls of the cagarro, to the nests of swallows. The most common non-domesticated animals on the Azores are birds. More than 150 species can be seen, of which about 35 breed in the Azores.

They include various types of seagulls, plovers, terns, chaffinches, sparrows, bullfinches, buzzards, goshawks, and doves. The priolo, a native species, the hawk, blackbird, cagarro, wood pigeon, and common and red garajau are also common. The sea off the Azores is home to many species of fish and shellfish, as well as sperm whales. Not surprisingly, underwater diving and snorkeling are very popular.

Whale watching
From the beginning, the Azoreans hunted whales for oil. They were so successful that every major Atlantic whaling expedition would stop in the Azores. In 1979, Portugal not only outlawed whaling, but also made the deep waters around the Azores a natural reserve. The economic impact to the whaling industry was replaced by the eco-tourism of whale and marine-life watching that soon took over. Former whalers became guides, spotters, and hosts in museums.

Today, whale watching in the Azores often means going out to sea in a small semi-inflatable motorboat in search for the largest mammal on the planet. Launches ferry people to the whales for a close-up encounter. New laws passed by the Regional Government protect the whales and the visitors by limiting the number of boats, and the speed and distance they can use to approach a herd. Experienced guides offer insights into the lives of these creatures and, best of all, seeing a whale is almost guaranteed. This is because on mountainsides throughout the central group of islands, former whalers are posted as spotters, radioing in the position and number of whales to the boats. Local whales include sperm whales, northern bottlenose, pilot, sowerby's beaked whales, and occasionally orcas. Two excellent whaling museums may be found on the island of Pico, detailing the history and culture of the now-banned trade.

The dolphins that are commonly sighted on these trips include: Atlantic bottlenose, risso, Atlantic spotted and striped. The protected waters has not simply been good for the whale watching industry, but has helped numerous whale species to recover and prosper, making whale watching an exciting and unique experience.

Peter Café Sport, Faial
Tel: 351 292 292327
www.whalewatching-azores.com

Espaço Talassa, Pico
Tel: 351 292 672010
www.espaotalassa.com

Azorean Cuisine
Food in the Azores has a Portuguese base, but with a strong local flavor. Limpets (a shellfish), crayfish and rabbit stews are specialties. Octopus stewed in wine is typical of São Miguel, while beef stew is traditional on Terceira. Fish chowders are rich and tasty, and the fresh catch of the day is featured at most eateries.

The wide variety of local fish is a benefit of being in the middle of the ocean, and each island has its own way of preparing the bounty of the sea. On land, there is no shortage of cows, grazing in natural pastures. Thus, the Azores offer fine beef, served in numerous ways including grilled and roasted in a wine sauce. And, the Portuguese staple of salted codfish is omnipresent here, with unusual local and traditional mainland recipes.

There is a large variety of local cheeses, mostly made from cow's milk. São Jorge's cheeses are famous throughout Europe. And, São Miguel, Pico, and Faial also produce excellent cheeses. Try them on any of the many local breads, from the sweet breads, to the flat breads of Pico, or the levedo muffins of São Miguel. And, the vast array of pastries and cakes makes the Azores a sweet place to visit. Try grilled pineapple, Dona Amelia cakes, or the cheese cakes from either Graciosa or Vila Franca on São Miguel.

Pineapple hot houses are unique to the Azores, with the island of São Miguel boasting more than 6,000. The local pineapple is quite different than any other, with a small crown, and an intense flavor. Better yet, it is grown year-round. Add pineapple to the many pastries and cakes of the Azores, and any local meal is guaranteed to end well.

While there is no shortage of table wines from the mainland, fine wines, liqueurs and brandies are distilled on the islands. Be sure to try the wines of the lava soil of Pico, the excellent wines of Graciosa, and wine from the north coast or Terceira. Exotic fruits are made into liqueurs and potent brandies. And, Especial, the local beer, is an excellent lager.

Festivals
Holy Ghost Festivals, or Espírito Santo Festivals, are very important to the people of the Azores. The festivals, rooted in medieval traditions, are held on all the islands from May to September. They have lively parades and large feasts, with the traditional handing out of soup and bread. On Terceira and other islands, decorative houses called Imperios, are the staging points for the feeding of the masses. The Festivals of Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres (Lord Holy Christ of Miracles) in Ponta Delgada (São Miguel) is in May. The Sanjoaninas Festivities in Angra do Heroísmo in Terceira are held in June. The Semana do Mar (Sea Week) in Horta (Faial) is in June. The festival of the whalers on Pico and the Mar (Sea) Festival on Santa Maria are in August. Carnival is held on Graciosa in the summer. One highlight of these festivals is the gathering of the bread processions, and the feasts of sweet bread and vegetable soups.

Golf and Sports
With a mild climate and lush vegetation, the Azores are perfect for outdoor sports. Golf, tennis, bicycling, hiking, parasailing and horseback riding are all offered. Yachts from around the world dock in the harbors of Horta, Ponta Delgada, and Praia da Vitoria. Deep-sea fishing, diving, surfing, wind surfing, and sailing are also to be found on all of the islands.

Golf is special here, with three excellent courses (two on São Miguel and one on Terceira). Verdegolf on São Miguel operates two beautiful world-class courses, the 1939 Furnas course, and the new Batalha course. Both take advantage of vistas and natural features to offer a unique golfing experience. In June of 2003, another nine holes were added to the Batalha course, to make it a golfing destination all its own. And new course is also planned for Pico.

Verdegolf
Tel: 351 296 498-559
Fax: 351 296 498-284
E: verdegolf@virtualazores.com
www.virtualazores.com/verdegolf

Walking and Biking Tours
From seacoasts to valleys, from gardens to forests, the Azores offers a wide range of landscapes to explore on foot. Country hedgerow lanes and open fields leading to extinct volcanic craters. The Azores are best appreciated slowly and on foot, and most islands have designated hiking areas, with maps offered at the local tourism office.

Another great way to experience the Azores is by bicycle. Little used country roads, mountain passes, and seaside roads lend themselves to visitors in search of sweeping mountain and ocean views, waterfalls, and volcanic lakes. Well-paved and graded roads make cycling a pleasure for any experience level. For the more adventurous, dirt backroads lead to hidden valleys, gardens, and tiny towns. Peter Café Sport offers one-way biking tours down from the heights of Faial to Horta.

Easy Rider Tours
Tel: 800 488-8332
Fax: 978 463-6988
E: info@easyridertours.com
www.easyridertours.com

Bullfighting
Bullfighting in Portugal is a festival of horsemanship, elegance, and drama where the bull is not killed. The Portuguese bullfight is, at first glance, quite simple. A caveleiro, or rider, is dressed in a three-cornered hat and a silk jacket embroidered with gold and lace, reminiscent of 18th-century nobility. In order to place the dart into the bull, the caveleiro and his Lusitano horse must draw the bull to a charge. Horse and bull then charge at each other, with the horse suddenly veering off to avoid an impact. Then the rider must place the colorful dart exactly in the bull's back muscle and ride off unscathed, to the cheers of the crowd and the sound of music. Locals on Terceira enjoy an odd sport of tethered bullfighting, where anyone brave or foolish enough can go a few rounds with a bull on the city streets.

Imagine the running of the bulls meets bungie jumping. The bullfighting with ropes on Terceira is held from May to October. Velas on São Jorge also host a bullfight in June.



Azorean Crafts
There is long tradition of local crafts in the Azores. Shoppers will find many quality handmade items to browse through, from scrimshaw, to baskets, ceramics and textiles, and furniture. Folk figurines, flowers made from dried fish scales, embroideries and lace, and knit blankets and bedspreads are other typical treasures. Using local materials, the Azorean artisans in Lagoa also make blue and white ceramic pieces. And, the scrimshaw art continues with whalebone and teeth recovered from the sea (where it was dumped in the whaling days) being carved and etched. Jewelry pieces, such as pendants and earrings are also crafted with whalebone. The Azores are also known for their miniature whaleboats. Lastly, some island produce dolls made from the pith of fig trees, corn husk and hydrangea.



English Language Guidebook to the Azores:
The Azores: The Bradt Travel Guide
by David Sayers

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